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The Costa Brava, geographically bound by the Mediterranean Sea and the Pyrenees, is a name which has become classical and refers to the coast of the Province of Girona including the regions of Alt Emporda, Baix Emporda and Selva of Catalonia (Cataluña/Catalunya).

Nature, climate and history seem to be rivals in the creation of a strangely attractive environment, hard to grasp, buy captivating. Against the blue, green and navy blue of the sea, there is the exuberant contrast of the vegetation, which reaches down to the very edge of the sea or sometimes climbs the steep cliffs, while on other occasions it comes close to the beaches, casting a green light on the fine golden sands which stand out form the ochre-coloured surroundings further inland. The main role of the scenery is supported by an annual mean temperature of 16ºC with moderate rainfall and 2,500 hours of sunshine a year illuminating the traces of history and art which point to a remarkable past and are only the visible shapes of a reality with a hidden heartbeat that needs discovering.

Its coastline of 21km reaches from Blanes in the south, which is bounded by El Maresme and El Montseny, to Port Bou on the French border in the north. Beaches, coves, cliffs and forests alternate with world-famous places: s´Agaro, Tossa de Mar, Begur, Cadaques and Portlligat. The modern infrastructure for tourism the area turns the Costa Brava into one of the foremost tourist destinations in Spain.

There is yet another element which shapes the character of the inhabitants as well as of the land. ie, the winds: Tramontana, blowing from behind the mountains, Garbi out of the southwest, Levante from the east, Mediodia from the south. They contribute to quite an extent to keeping the hot summers cooler and to forming the Emporda way of life, which is said to be generous and suspicious, tolerant and ironic at the same time, and forceful and perhaps fatalistic as well.

Many are the legends spun around the smiling plain, as El Emporda was called in an old Sardana, the Catalan dance. The one about the founding of its towns and villages goes back to the creation of the world. It says that God spent the spring of Creation in the lands of El Emporda. Another says that El Emporda was born after a shepherd met a siren. When the inhabitants of the Pyrenees and of the Mediterranean found that their image was one, the essence of the rich plain of Emporda took shape, which is also said to be the cradle for the Catalan tongue.

It is half legend, half history that the old people called indigetas were the former inhabitants of El Emporda, since the area known in antiquity as "coast of the indigetas" was identified by some researches as being that of Girona.

There is still another legend which claims that the relics of the Apostle San Pedro (St. Peter) are buried on a mountain towering over the sea, where the temple of the Pyrenean Aphrodite stood. It is true though that the Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes, where they were said to be kept, has been called the heart of El Emporda, ie, its epicentre. It lies in the middle of the Rodes Sierra, looking out over the Port de la Selva, and the history of the region unfolded around this monastery which dates from 608 if we believe the parchment in its library.

The prehistoric finds on their part speak of Catalonia as an area that has lived in from the earliest times. The remains of Neanderthal man found in Banyolas are proof of that if we just keep to Girona in the province which other finds of the Palaeolithic Age were found in Serinya or Sant Julia de Ramis, apart from Dolmens and Neolithic Menhirs in many places.

Of the Iberians, whose advanced culture was that of the native inhabitants, the ruins of the settlement of Ullatret are preserved. Greece left traces in Paleoplic and Neopolis which together make up the ruins of Empuries, one of the most important archaeological sites in Spain, and in Rhodes, which is Roses today. Rome entered the Iberian peninsula at Empuries when Scipio landed there in 218 BC and of its passing magnificent traces are left at the sites mentioned in Empuries. Six centuries of its presence has had a bearing on what was later to become Catalonia. Visigoths and Arabs contributed to shaping the Catalan identity through the fights between the Franks and Muslims since Girona belonged to the Hispanic Mark created by Charlemagne.

With Wilfred I El Velloso and the independence of the Catalan countries of Hispanic Mark, the Catalan dynasty was born as well as the beginnings of a community which already had a flag at the end of the 9C: the Senyera.

The union of Catalonia and Aragon through the marriage of Raman Berenguer IV, Count of Barcelona, and Petronila, heiress of Aragon, in 1137 as well as the conquest of the Balearics and Valencia by Jaime I El conquistador spread the Catalan tongue and culture "from Salses to Guardamar and from Fraga to Ma". Isabel, Queen of Castile, and Fernando King of Aragon, also joined their crowns by marriage in 1479 and thus Catalonia came to participate in Spain as a unified whole.

When Felipe IV tried to abolish the peculiar constitution of the kingdoms of Spain in 1640, the peasant uprising prevented it and the deed was immortalised in the Catalan hymn Els Segadors. When Barcelona fell into the hands of his followers, Felipe V annulled its laws and institutions and took action against the Catalan tongue and culture. That was on September 11th 1714, which is still celebrated every as La Diada in memory of the nationalist feelings in Catalonia. The renaissance of Catalan culture after various historical and political ups and downs in later times is the basis today of Catalan identity which, full of health and vigour, permeates the institutions beginning with the Autonomous Statute which governs Catalonia.

Although the countryside described at the beginning is the most typical on the Costa Brava, to be more precise it must be said that within it there is great variety with regard to the abundance of nature as such as well as the atmosphere in the different parts. Thus, using a definition dating from 1908, we may speak of the Costa Brava of the forests (pin, oak, ilex and oak forests), which is the most southerly and coincides with the coast of the region of La Selva, which is separated form El Emporda by the Sierra of Las Gevarres. The surrounding mountains, Les Guilleries in the north west and El Montseny in the south, are very rugged and in their valleys there are villages and towns, while their spurs reach down to the sea where they alternate with wild, extremely beautiful and famous coves. This is the stretch between Blanes and Tossa de Mar. Despite the tourist developments, the peaceful atmosphere and hidden places remain unchanged. The Costa Brava which belongs to Baix Emporda is the most visited part of the coast which is open, flat and has large sandy beaches where the plants are fewer, but the joy of living and acting much greater.. This is the part between Sant Feliu de Guixols and L´Estartit. The most northerly section of the Costa Brava belongs to Alt Emporda between L´Escala and Portbou which includes the stretch Roses-Cabo de Creus, ie, a moonscape with dark, twisted stones, which has been called the harsh coast. It is the smallest section, and its surprising scenery is practically untouched and contrast vividly with the wide beach of Roses.

Blanes. This harbour on the Costa Brava, the Wild Coast, at the border of the province of Barcelona, marks the beginning of the most light-filled part of the Costa Brava, where the blues, greens and even pinks are ever-present. It is an important tourist resort on the site of the Roman town of Blanda, of which there are more literary than archaeological traces. Of interest are its Gothic fountain, the Parish church of Santa Maria and the also Gothic remains of the castle of the Viscounts of Cabrera. On the neighbouring Mountain of Sant Joan, a visit should be paid to the Romanesque ruins of the castle, which are Arab-inspired, and the watchtower, an unmistakable landmark of the resort. From there one has a splendid panoramic view of the Bay of Blanes. There is a good, 1km beach with yacht clubs and a marina. On the way to the Cove of Sant Francesc, we find the Chapel of L´Esperança with ex votos of fishermen, the Hermitage of San Francesc and the Sanctuary of El Vilar. The Bona or Forcanera Cove and the one of Sant Francesc are the first of a series along the coast. The gardens of Mar i Murtra and of Pinya de Rosa will be described in the ecological itinerary because of their importance.

Between Blanes and Lloret de Mar, there are the beaches of Santa Catalina, peaceful and with a Baroque hermitage, and of Fenals, which is very open and developed with tourist constructions.

Lloret de Mar. This tourist resort par excellence prides itself on having the largest number of hotels along the coast as well as a variety of establishments and shows for an animated night life: bars, discotheques, night clubs and casinos. Of the Romans there are the traces of a burial tower which seems to have been part of a larger building: it is known as the Tower of the Moors (la Torre dels Moros). Of feudal Lloret, there is the Parish Church of Sant Roma, which was decorated by the Indianos (emigrant Catalans who returned) with tiles of different colours. It is hard not to notice it because the complex easily catches the eye. The town hall square retains the character of a place open towards the sea with little whitewashed streets around it. The beach is very large, clean and transparent. The 11C castle on the rocks watches over the bathing tourists. On the outskirts, there is the Hermitage of Sant Quirce, the oldest in Lloret, which can be reached in the course of a walk. Les Alegries has a Romanesque bell tower and Calandria frescoes. Santa Catalina has a rich marble altar today, which is neo-classical, and Sant Pere del bosc was improved by its Indiano owner.

From Lloret to Tossa we follow the road along the sea and make a detour to La Caleta, Cala Trons or the beach of Canyelles, which is huge, wide and not built up, its only division being the famous El Carquinyoli rock.

Tossa de Mar. Its other name is blue paradise, with which it was baptised by Marc Chagall who visited and painted the town in 1933 (one of his pictures is kept in the museum). Later other painters, writers and intellectuals arrived. Since then it has become an important international tourist centre, which does not mean that it has not managed to preserve one of the most harmonious sceneries on the coast. Of pre-Roman origin, the remains of a Roman villa with a magnificent mosaic were found in the surroundings and the Vila Vella, the 12C old part, still preserves is narrow, winding streets of medieval design and is surrounded by a curtain wall with five towers, of which only three are left: the keep, Las Horas and d En Joneas. In the town museum, there are archaeological finds and a collection of paintings of the many artists who came for a visit. As Josep Pla used to say, "Tossa´s best is its air, its light, its shape, its colour, its life....". A view from the lighthouse puts "this marvel", again according to Pla, into perspective, but its bay as well as its east and west cove deserve the same description. On the way from Tossa to Sant Feliu de Guixols, behind the large beach there is the one of La Bauma. It is also known as Mar Menuda, the Little Sea, from where there is a good view of the old part and its towers. Facing it are the reefs of L´Illa and Les Illetes, after which the coast becomes a succession of very steep cliffs. These can be visited only on foot or by boat, which in order to reach Sant Feliu, is not all a bad idea.

San Feliu de Guixols. This is already the coast of Baix Emporda and the countryside remains rugged as far as Begur, in the way it is typical for La Selva. As from that of Pals, the beaches are open and level. In Sant Feliu, there was an Iberian settlement on which the town, a clerical foundation, was built. It dates from the 12C and stands on the site of the Benedictine Monastery of Sant Feliu. From the observation platform of Sant Elm, the whole bay can be overlooked. It had a lot of maritime traffic and cork industries which made it into the second most important town of El Emporda in the 14C. Impressive are the church and other elements of the old Romanesque monastery with the famous Porta Ferrada, a beautiful, perhaps Mozarab portico of the 11C. Along the beautiful promenade, the modernist buildings of the Casino dels Nois and Can Patxot deserve attention. There is a museum with archaeological objects, ceramics, etc. Its sandy beach next to the anchorage is a twin of the one at Sant Pol, 3km away.Costa Brava

S´Agaro. It may well be called a model residential complex because all the buildings are of a similar distinguished type and perfectly in harmony with the scenery amidst trees and gardens. One of the most luxurious hotels in Spain, where Charlie Chaplin, Humphrey Bogart, Ava Gardener, Lauren Bacall and thousands of other famous guests have stayed has found perfectly adequate surroundings here. The beach of Sa Conca is very near. It is semi-circular and the pine trees are within easy reach in the dazzling light. This is probably why it is considered a landmark of the coast.

Platja d´Aro (Aro Beach). It is a large, open beach with fine sand, which is visited by a great number of position tourists because of its situation and the large number of accommodation facilities around it. But then it becomes the centre of the moonlight coast because its night life provides all lovers of the late night and early morning hours with many different possibilities for spending their leisure time. The boutiques, souvenirs, shops with all kinds of objects, bars, coffee shops, pubs, restaurants, open-air cafes, clubs, discotheques, gambling halls, etc. are in themselves a spectacle as they announce themselves with their neon signs. In addition, there are the visitors from almost five continents, who gather there to attend the numerous activities programmed in the establishments described, activities of all kinds and for all tastes. In one word, there are thousands of stars under spotlights and in multi coloured lights.

Along the coast, between Platja d´Aro and Sant Antoni de Calonge and Palamos, tow tourist resorts which share the bay as well as their tourist character with the one mentioned first, there are Sa Cova, N´Artigues, El Comtat de Sant Jordi, Roque Planes, Torre Valentina and Treaumal, attractive places, all of which lie 1km from Calonge inland, a lovely village with a medieval layout crowding around the castle of the Dukes of Sessa, which was built in the 12C. It has many remarkable old buildings. The old maritime part, Sant Antoni de Calonge, has developed considerably through tourism along the beach which continues as far as Palamos.

Palamos. It owes its development to the Royal Charter of Establishment which Pedro III granted its inhabitants in 1279. Thus the monarch had access to the sea, while the town lived and active, rich and refined life, excepting, of course, the occasions when it was devastated by pirates and Turks, including by Redbeard himself, according to the chronicles. In the 18c and 19C, cork, fishing (the catch is still auctioned off in the auction hall or lonja) and coastal shipping made it rich, and it became the other important coastal town together with Sant Feliu.

Its present tourist development is plainly justified in view of its 14C Gothic church of Santa Maria, its popular architecture, the modernist buildings, the colourful weekly market, the Cau Museum of the Costa Brava, the marina which turns it into a water sports centre and its long beach.

Beyond Palamos, the road leads away from the coast, but there are paths for those want to walk leaving their car behind. Otherwise they may have to take the regional roads if they want to reach the places on the coast.. These roads which lead to the stretch between Calella and the beach of Pals are found in Palafrugell and in La Bisbal, which connects with the main road to Figueres or, on the right, with the one to L´Estartit.

Beyond Palamos and Point El Moli, we reach Cala Margarida, and further along this stretch of rugged coast, La Cova d´En Fabiano and El Cap Gros before arriving at the beach and bay of La Fosca, which is named after the dark rock in its centre. La Fosca is a splendid summer resort and its 1.5km beach of fine sand is famous because the water is so shallow. A visit should include the medieval Castle of Sant Esteve de Mar. The next place is the famous Cala S´Aguer (Algae Cove) where some fishermen's huts stand and which was officially declared a picturesque site in 1972. Mas Juny on the Cove of Castell, where the painter Josep Maria Sert used to live, is close by. There is a magnificent beach in the vicinity of which we find an Iberian settlement. Point Castell leads to these infrequently visited places: Cala Xenia, Els Canyers, Cala Estreta and Cap de Planes, with the Formiges Islands opposite and a navigable channel between them, which became famous because of the Catalan-Sicilian victory of Roger de Lauria over the French Provençal Felipe el Atrevido.

Back on the coast and far away from battles, Cape Roig draws ones attention and makes the traveller stop. This is what a Russian ex-coronal by the name of Woevowsky did, who built himself a magnificent house and a lovely, 8 hectare landscaped garden, which deserves a visit to get to know the beauty of the Costa Brava from a botanical point of view.

Calella de Palafrugell. This is the first of the three excellent beaches - the others are Llafranc and Tamariu - which are reached over roads leading out of Palafrugell, a village a few kilometres inland from the beach. Its surroundings are considered to be among the finest scenery of Baix Emporda. As a cork production centre, it has two very different parts: the old one with the Gothic church and buildings of the 17C and 18C, and El Ensanche with modernist constructions from the beginning of the 20C. This is the home town of Josep Pla, the great Emporda writer, to whom the House of Culture is dedicated. In the vicinity, there are typical Catalan country houses calle dmasias or the typical rural homes at Santa Margarita, which are extraordinary.

Calella. this erstwhile fishing village has managed to combine that atmosphere with being a residential retreat for the Palafrugell bourgeoisie as well as an important tourist centre. The porches of many of its houses are open towards the beach of Portbou, which gives it a special air. There are several coves: El golfet, Port Pelegri, Tres Pins, El Canadell, Malaspina, Sota can Jubert of one of Els Canyisos. In the summer, a popular dance festival takes place. these dances are called habaneras and are performed to the tunes brought back from Cuba by those who had returned form those parts. Savouring a cremat, a liqueur prepared according to recipes handed down through generations, is another tasty way of getting closer to discovering the attractions of the coast.

Llanfranc. On a perfect semicircle, which is the bay, the village extends as far as the mountain of the lighthouse of Sant Sebastia. Under its pine forests, old archaeological remains lie hidden, such as those found of the Megalithic civilisations: the dolmen of Can Mina dels Torrents. The beach of fine sand and the marina guarantee a pleasant stay, which may be rounded off by a visit to the nearby Cape of Sant Sebastia, the hermitage of which is a Baroque building today. From the observation platform over the sea, there is a breathtaking view.

Tamariu. This bay at the mouth of a flood river owes its name to the tamarinds which form a dense vegetation in the company of pine trees. It is another of the Palafrugell beaches, which is perhaps the most visited, but has remained as attractive as ever. At the foot of La Musclera, there is the beautiful town of La Perica. Towards the north, a once solitary place full of exuberance; Aigua Xellida, with an enormous housing development. excursions by boat are recommended to the caves of En Gispert and of El Bispe.

The Begur Coast. The traveller should judge for himself, but he should know that the coves along the Begur Coast, between Aiguablava and Sa Riera, are said to be the most beautiful of the whole Costa Brava. The coves of Aiguablava, a name connected with the intense blue of its waters, where the state run Parador lies, and Fornells, which lies before Begur, are justly called "shining scenery" because of their colour and transparency. There, accommodation is compatible with peace and quiet.

Begur lies in a semicircle around a hill on which a castle stands, the 5 huge towers of which are officially protected as a site of national importance. The castle is of the 15C and was occupied during the War of Independence. From there the beach of Pals, the Medes Islands and the Emporda plain can be seen. The narrow, winding streets with the porticoed galleries of the houses are typical. These buildings belonged to the so calle Indianos, ie, natives of Begur, who emigrated in the 19C and returned rich.

After rounding the Cape of Begur, leaving a rough coast, the Bay of Sa Tuna provides the first contrast: the beach of eternally peaceful waters skirts a fishing village, where a 14C fountain and the ruins of a medieval tower are preserved and shared with the summer visitors. Aiguafreda is the next lovely cove of the characteristics described. Sa Riera was nothing but a fishing village a few years ago due to the abundance of anchovy and sardines; today its beautiful beach has a modern tourist centre from where the Medes Islands can be seen in the distance.

Playa de Pals. After the rugged part comes the wide plain of the beach of Pals, a product of the mouth of the River Ter. There, one finds all the tourist establishments enjoyed by these visitors. Pals is an old, 10C village further inland. The Gothic church, the clock tower of the old castle, the curtain walls and houses are magnificent sights for the beginning of a visit that may end at the fortified country houses in the vicinity.

Torroella de Montgri. This 13C residential village invites a detour from the coast, to see its porticoed Town Hall square, the 15C Gothic church, the palace of the Kings of Aragon and the Robert Palace as well as the walk to Montgri Castle or the Cau del Cur excavation site.

L´Estartit used to be a fishing village and is an important tourist centre today, with a large beach and nautical installations. It lies opposite the Medes Islands, which makes their visit a must. They consist of four small islands on which Roman remains were discovered. The underwater park is very attractive for diving. The Torroella Coast, between L´Estartit and l´Escala, completes the seaborne excursion because its coves are difficult to reach, but interesting to see: from Pedros to Cala Montog, with the surprising La Foradada along the way in the gulf of La Monedera. This is a rock "carved out" by the battering waves and through which the sea has made a tunnel where the boats can pass.

Beyond L´Escala lies the beginning of the coastal stretch corresponding to Alt Emporda, which reaches as far as Portbou. It includes the marvellous archaeological sites of Empuries, Roses, Cadaques, El abo de Crues (Cape Creus) and San Pere de Rodes, with Figueres in the lead, which is the capital of the region, Dali´s birthplace and a communications centre. In this area of Emporda the greatest scenic contrasts are found on the Costa Brava as well as the most unique scenery, from the coasts which received the Greeks and Romans, and Empuries and Roses, from the best preserved typical village, ie, Cadaques, and the place chosen by Dali for a residence, ie, Port Lligat, to the wild combination of sea and mountains, ie, the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees at Cape Creus, which comes close to looking as if it were from outer space, from the moon, and the Romanesque grandeur of Sant Pere de Rodes. Similar to the rainbow, which runs from purple to yellow, in a few kilometres one travels from the blue gulf of Roses to the grey rocks of Creus.

It is the gateway to the gulf of Roses, from a geographical as well as a tourist point of view. This village, which is one of the main fishing harbours along the coast, is also an important tourist centre, combining the smell of salt water with the bustle of tourists who add a note of colour and joy to it. For them the village has a special attraction which are the trainyeros, typical boats which leave the harbour at night with their lamps lit to go fishing.

Empuries lies very near L´Escala. It has a good beach, which is dwarfed by the most important archaeological site in Spain, ie, the ruins of the Greek Paleopolis at Sant Marti d´Empuries, with the Neopolis, necropolis and the Roman Ruins as well as the museum of the excavations. The foundation of Empuries is ascribed to the Greeks who had settled at Marsseille in 550BC. They first erected a small building near the native village of Indica,, which was the Paleopolis on what used to be an island. Half a century later they founded the Neopolis called Emporion on the mainland, which eventually became one with Indica and an important Greek colony. The Romans landed at Empuries to fight the Carthaginians and ended up by building a town ten times as large as the Greek one. The Visigoths made it into an episcopal seat, while the Moors razed it when they found resistance. The Norman pirates put the final "touch" to it in the 9C. A visit of the ruins shows the market, the agora, the holy area where the temples stood and the main one dedicated to Jupiter. Among a group of altars, the statue of Aesculapius was found, a reproduction of which can be seen. The museum shows reproductions of the most valuable finds, which are kept in Barcelona and Girona. The ruins of a Christian basilica and Visigothic sarcophagi are found the harbour area. Of the Roman town, the southern wall, the amphitheatre and the arena are preserved as well as the ruins of a Roman villa with the impluvium, arcaded patios and some beautiful mosaics.

Beyond Sant Pere Pescador, a rustic and at the same time sea orientated village in the heart of the immense bay of fine, golden sands, which is the gulf of Rasas, a short excursion inland may be on the cards. This would take us to Castello Empuries which is only 15km away and recommendable. The place is of great interest because it was the capital of the County of Empuries between the 10C and 14C. Its magnificent Gothic Church of Santa Maria still has a Romanesque tower. The west front and apse are remarkable as is the alabaster retable of the High Altar. Its beautiful buildings everywhere speak of its glorious past: La Casa de la Vila (Town Hall), an example of civil Gothic, the palace of the count, the Church of Santa Magdalena, the Convent of La Merced, the arcaded square and the Gothic bridge over the Muga. On its coast there is the housing estate Empuriabrava, one of the most complete marina complexes in Spain: a large yacht harbour, navigation channels, aerodrome, riding, trapshooting, etc.

Is history and tourism at the same time, both of which it offers the traveller to attract him. Roses stands on the site of Rhode, a Greek colony of the 9C. It has witnessed many battles which almost did away with its large, stellar shaped citadel of the 16C, which was built around the remains of the old Benedictine monastery and the Basilica of Santa Maria of Roses. It has an excellent natural harbour where tourist development has been extraordinarily fast, based, to be sure, on the 4km beach of fine sand and the large size of the area, which includes a beautiful promenade today, a huge marina and many possibilities for entertainment, among them an excursion to the coves of Canyelles Petites, Canyelle Grosses, those of Montjoi, and behind Cape Norfeu that of Joncols. On Puig Roma there is an observation platform with the Castle of La Trinitat and an impressive dolmen: that of La Crue d´en Cobertella, which is huge.

After the rugged stretch interspersed with the coves described, this is an obligatory stop for any traveller who wants to get to know the Costa Brava. It was discovered by painters, artists and intellectuals who chose it for a place of residence and has thus escaped the changes produced by crowded growth. It lies on the peninsula of Cape Creus, on one of the slopes looking out over the bay of Cadaques, and it is hard to know what is more surprising: whether it is the scenery, in shades of grey from the salty stones and of silvery green from the olive trees against the white of its houses and the endless horizon of the sea, or whether it is its personality, its attractive force. It is difficult to say, but not to feel, because it penetrates ones being as its streets and hidden corners take control. This is what Dali found, he who transferred it to his paintings and helped to extend the fame of the place as it is today: an important centre of avant garde art where noteworthy exhibitions and cultural activities take place in the numerous art galleries. In the Museum of Graphic Arts, there are paintings by Salvador Dali, sculptures, drawings, and other objects. The Arts Museum displays paintings by artists connected with Cadaques. In its church, the Baroque retable of which is an important work of art, the International Music festival is held in august. Walking through the steep streets, visiting its galleries, buying fashion in the boutiques, having a drink in the "cellars", real wineries until the 19C and meeting places today, or in the cafes on the promenade are essential steps to help unravel the mystery surrounding the place, which not everybody manages to do. Very near Cadaques lies Portlligat, a small beach with transparent water where Salvador Dali had his residence.

After a visit to Cape Crues and ape Gros, which will please all those who love unique and lonely countryside, El Port de la Selva receives the visitor as a natural shelter for boats. It is a fishing village which shares its seafaring activities and its peace with tourism. In its township stands the magnificent Benedictine Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes which towers over the whole area from its privileged position and which is made responsible for clearing the forests, after which the area is named, the same as La Selva de Mar, the forest of the sea, which today is nothing but a name.

The ruins speak Sant Pere de Rodes, once a great Romanesque fortress, where Arab and Carolingian traces can be found and which was ransacked by the population when the monks left it in the 18C. The church has three naves and the plan is that of a Latin cross. Tow towers remain of the abbey and the whole complex is being restored. Climbing up to the top of the Sierra of Rodes and the ruins of the monastery provides an opportunity to see the whole coast, a panorama, which is lost in the distance. Close by stands the dolmen called La Taula dels Lladres, which is small.

are the last tourist resorts today from which the coves and beaches can be reached that belong to Grifeu de Els Capellans, La Farella, Rovellada and Garbet or to El Pino and tres Platgetes, where the Pyrenees and the sea become one. Llança has a pier for yachts, while Portbou has all the signs that make it into a border port. The beautiful bay of Portbou is a splendid end to the so-called Costa Brava, which could also have been called the Costa Bella, the beautiful coast.

The itineraries along the coast expressly avoid any reference to towns and villages inland and are meant initially just to give an idea of the coastal resources as such, of which there are many and very important ones as well. But a visit to the Costa Brava would be incomplete without travelling along some of the inland itineraries listed below.

Travelling back, ie, from Portbou, where the coastal route came to an end, one should go to Figueres by the road which connects both places.

As the capital of Alt Emporda, it is a busy commercial town, an important communications centre as well as Dali´s birthplace. There is a spectacular museum dedicated to him which is the meeting place of many visitors who come to the town.

Figueres, which came into the hands of the Counts of Barcelona in the 12C, grew considerably in the 17C and 18C. The centre of the town, ie, La Rambla, has interesting neo-Classical buildings. On the outskirts stands the Castle of Sant ferran, which was begun in 1753 and became one of the largest fortresses in Europe. Apart from the Dali Museum in the former town theatre, which is in itself enough for a visit of Figueres, the Emporda Museum and the Toy Museum with objects from every period and different countries also deserve to be visited.

very near Figueres, has a good Romanesque building complex worthy of a visit, including the church of Santa Maria Monastery, with three apses, the cloister and bell tower. the abbatial palace is Gothic.

(the Emporda Lighthouse) is also close to Figueres. It has a church with a rectangular plan on a hill, which is a curious example of a fortified Romanesque church.

lies to the north of Figueres and used to be the capital of the County of Peralada, the place-cum-castle of which has a well-kept park, a library and a very valuable art collection. Part of the castle has been turned into a casino.

Romanesque architecture is represented best in Alt Emporda, and one of the most remarkable itineraries in search of it has been traced through the region. Of the countless Romanesque buildings, the most outstanding, apart from Sant Pere de Rodes and the Abbey of Vilabertran, are Sant Miguel de Fluvial, the former canonical one of Llado or Sant Tomas de Fluvia.

Alt Emporda also has a wine itinerary which connects Peralada, Vilajuiga (with a medieval synagogue), Gariguella (with forests and vineyards), L´Espolla (with megalithic sights), Campmany (with a Romanesque church) and Maçanet de Cabrenys.

La Bisbal is the capital of Baix Emporda. It has a large palace which was built by the bishops of Girona, who ruled there, and which is an important example of civil Romanesque. Other interesting constructions include the Baroque parish church, the old bridge, the urban layout of Les Voltes and 18C houses. Outstanding is the the production of ceramics, a very noteworthy craft. This itinerary may be continued through Madremanya (medieval, a Romanesque church), Monells (a medieval village, the square), Cruilles (Tower of Santa Eulalia, medieval walls), Peratallada (Castle-cum-palace and walls), Ullastret (with an important Iberian settlement, museum and castle) and Verges (towers and curtain walls; Danza de la Muerte, Dance of Death in Holy Week).

Girona. It is the capital of the province, and in twenty centuries of history a lot has accumulated that bears witness to the events in which it played the leading role. It lies at the point where the rivers Onyar, Ter, G?ll and Galligants converge and due to its strategic situation it has suffered countless assaults, sieges and invasions. Though the treasures with regard to sights, culture and traditions should be described elsewhere, the most important ones will be listed for those visitors of the Costa Brava who want to get to know the region more than superficially.

Girona was a Roman town and completely encircled by a wall. Especially outstanding sights include the Monastery of Sant Pere de Galligants, San Nicolas Church, the Araba baths, the Jewish quarter and of course the Cathedral, which stands on a square. Next to its Baroque west front there is the House of La Pia Almoyna, which is Gothic, and one of the gates of the old wall, which is called Sobreportes. The cloister and the tower of the cathedral, however, are remarkable examples of Romanesque architecture. The beautiful nave is famous for being one of the largest of medieval Gothic architecture. If the square of the cathedral in wise combination with the buildings described is of great interest, the visitor cannot omit the Chapter House where the treasure is kept, among which the Tapestry of the Creation stands out more than any other of all the valuable objects it includes. Very near the Cathedral stands the Collegiate Church of Sant Feliu and Sant Domenec Monastery. Many other hidden places, residential and other outstanding buildings can be discovered on a walk through the city which will no doubt bring its importance home to the visitor.

Quart is a must for all those who are interested in craft products because its green and black ceramics are unique.

Banyoles is a typical beautiful village where the museum of the prehistoric excavations can be visited. There are also Gothic buildings and the scenery around Lake Banyoles.

Santa Coloma de Farners is the capital of the Region of La Selva. Outstanding are the Romanesque Church of Sant Pere and the one of Santa Victoria, other interesting sights include the fountain of San Salvador, the castle, the Hermitage of La Mare de Deu and the former Parish Church of Sant Andreu, which is Romanesque.

The whole region is famous for its mineral waters with medicinal properties, and it therefore has spas like Caldes de Malavella, which stands on the site of Roman baths, Sant Hilari Sacalm and Amer. Apart from those mentioned, Arbucies, Breda and Hostalric have a further advantage because of their sights and scenery.

Nature lovers are advised to visit the nature park of the "humid areas of El Emporda". It lies between Santa Margarida and Castello d´Empuries and only includes the lagoons of Alt Emporda.

Another outstanding place because of its natural beauty consists of the coves of Pola, Giverola and Salions, which have officially been declared of interest to inland tourism, apart from the botanical gardens already described in Blanes (Mar i Murta) and of Cape Roig. Finally there is a nudist camp in Palamos, which is called El Relax-Nat.

A widely extended and everyday expression of Catalan folklore everywhere in Catalonia is a dance: la Sardana. While Alt Emporda may be considered the cradle of this dance, it has its deepest roots in Baix Emporda and in La Selva, so much so that there are two ways of performing it: in the style of El Emporda and in the style of La Selva. The Sardana is a very old dance, which is truly Catalan, although some say that it is Greek in origin. The oldest reference to it is a prohibition to dance it, which was issued by the bishop of Girona in 1573. It is an open dance that can be joined and left again at any time, it is danced in a circle, holding hands and coordinating the steps in accordance with a complex and beautiful set of rules. It is performed to the tune of a typical band of ten musicians called la cobla. Pep Ventura, a musician from El Emporda and a famous player of the tenora, an oboe-like wind instrument, incorporated it in la cobla and turned the former short dance into the longer one of today. He was a famous composer of sardanas, such as the well-known El Cant dels Ocells, which is based on a popular melody. Juli Garreta is another outstanding composer of this dance. Among the most virtuoso bands are the Cobla Miramar from Figueres, the Cobla La Principal from La Bisbal and the one called De els Montgrins from Torroella de Montgri. The musical instruments for these bands are produced in El Emporda itself. During the weekends in summer, it is possible to take part in these dances which are normally performed in the village square. In the village of Amer in the region of La Selva, the Sardana del Alcalde is performed on the wide, arcaded square, the largest in Catalonia, on August 16th. This time however, the ring is not closed, but is spiral shaped because of the large number of participants.

Another peculiarity which emphasises Catalan sensitiveness to music are the songs called habaneras, which are performed in Calella and L´Escala in July and August.

The habaneras are sung by fishermen and sailors and were learned from the emigrants who went to Cuba in the 19C and then returned home. The Cuban rythyms were adapted to the ways of the fishermen who still sing them in the taverns of Llanfranc, Calella and above all L´Escala. There or in the cove at work or in the breaks, one can listen to the real habaneras which are something spontaneous and natural, preserving the history of these people, and on these occasions reserved for a group of friends with whom the moment is shared.

The Dance of Death is another folklore expression of special interest, which is why the celebration has officially been declared of interest to tourists. On the night of Maundy Thursday and as part of the scenes enacting the life of Jesus, the Dance of Death is performed in Verges (Baix Emporda). Five adults and a child, dressed in black tights on which a skeleton is painted and with skulls on their head, pass through the streets of the village and perform a milimetric dance to the sound of a drum, considered one of the oldest expressions of religious art.

Other interesting celebrations include El Peregrino de Tossa, which dates from the plague in the town in the 15C, when the inhabitants promised San Sebastian to send a pilgrim each year to the nearest chapel of the saint, which is the one of Santa Coloma de Farners, 40km away. It takes place on January 20th.

In Lloret de Mar, the Dance of Las Almorratxes is performed as part of the Patron Saint celebrations of Santa Cristina on August 24th, which has oficially been declared as of interest to tourists. Four couples perform this dance which is reminiscent of the Arabs and commemorates the time when a woman from Lloret refused the offering of a rich Arab. It ends with the popular "race for all comers".

On the same day Lloret holds the sea borne procession of Santa Cristina, in which the fishermen used to compete to see who would reach the beach first to the shouts of s´amorra, s´amorra (which is said of a vessel running aground).

In Llafranc a festive-religious excursion or romeria is organized with rice being the main ingredient. In S´Agaro the Art and Music Festivals take place and in Cadaques International Festivals of Music and Painting.

The Patron Saint of celebrations in many towns and villages are accompanied by traditional festive acts, such as romerias, dances, concerts, fireworkks, etc. Almost all these feasts take place in the main coastal towns and villages in the summer.

The centuries old Catalan culture finds an expression of popular art in the crafts which preserve especially interesting forms and traditions. Black Catalan pottery of reduced fire in Quart, La Bisbal and Verdu is just an example because it is produced with prehistoric techniques and forms. The Girona centre of La Bisbal, on the other hand, has grown and become one of the largest industrial ceramics producers today. Its designs were successfully updated in accordance with present needs and uses and the whole production is commercialised. With regard to ceramic, whose technique, colours and motifs are a product of Arab influence first and of French and Italian second, La Bisbal is again the largest production centre manufacturing pieces that combine the traditional forms with modern enamel. Its production of crockery is respectable and the colours used are green, brown and yellow.

Grilles and other decorative iron work is found in Besalu, while copper, a metal which is traditionally used for the production of domestic and decorative objects, is processed in Ripol.

Catalan wooden furniture is also of interest, but especially important is the cork production in La Selva, a material with which a great number of different objects is made.

With regard to textiles, the embroidery deserves special mention. It is made with the bobbin technique which produces real masterpieces. They are still found in Palamos, Olot and other Catalan areas. Recently a school of Puntaires was created to promote embroidery.

Wickerwork also includes beautiful forms and useful objects, among them the rushbottomed chairs of Tortella. Religious imagery of decorated and painted plaster is mainly produced in Olot, where the lovely Nativity figures are also made, one of which is typically Catalan and should not be absent in any Nativity scene. It is the figure of a shepherd called caganer surprised in a compromising moment.

The crafts also include the production of musical instruments which was pointed out when the cobla was described. Apart from that, there is an important production centre for string instruments in Banyoles, including guitars, mandolins, harps, etc.

All these are traditional crafts and the modern ones include imitation and fashion jewellery with avant-garde and even daring designs, which may surprise and attract in the shop-windows of the numerous boutiques, souvenir and antique shops and others which are plentiful all along the coast.

The Catalan cuisine is no doubt one of the most outstanding in Spain. It is said that in El Emporda a great percentage of the cooking marvels of Catalonia are found. Since it cannot be otherwise, the cuisine is based on a mixture of the land and the sea, of the sweet and the salty. By the way, the invention of ali-oli is ascribed to the monks of Sant Pere de Rodes as are many fish dishes which they seasoned with every imaginable combination based on garlic, of which the documents of Sant Feliu de Guixols about the Order of St Benedict are proof.

We can distinguish two areas of the Emporda cuisine: the one inland, where meat abounds, especially fowl and pork, and the coastal area, which is mainly based on a great variety of fish.

Since it is a typical Mediterranean cuisine, the use of olive oil is common. It is an old cuisine which is already mentioned in the medieval codices. Among the fish dishes, the best known and tastiest are no doubt el suquet de peix and sepia. Other excellent dishes include la mariscada with shellfish, el arroz negro, a rice dish, las anchoas al estilo de las Medas, which is an anchovy dish, and lobster with chicken.

La escudella carn d´olla (a meat stew), manos de cerdo estofadas (stewed pigs trotters), meat with stuffed pears and apples, chicken with pine nuts, butifarra and black plums, butifarra (a Catalan sausage) al estilo del Emporda, rabbit with snails and all kinds of sausages are also very tasty and typical for the area.

The desserts are also very varied: los buñuelos, which are made at Easter and las cocas de San Juan are also famous, the truffle-filled brazos de gitano, nata y crema, el bisbalenc made with almonds, mel i mato, crema Catalana and los carquinyolis. All along the coast, el cremat, ie, coffee with burnt rum, is a well liked drink. With a meal, the wines of El Emporda are justly famous: officially categorised (*Denominacion de Origen) as Emporda-Costa Brava, there are whites and sparkling wines from Peralada, roses from Espolla and red wines from Campmany.

This is a selection of the most interesting museums in Girona which deserve a few hours of attention in which the sun and fresh air should be forgotten.

On Saturdays and Sundays opening times are generally limited to the morning and on Mondays the museums are closed. On holidays, it depends: some open only in the mornings or close all day. The opening times below are those for the summer.

Sant Pere de Galligants. Subida Santa Lucia, 1. Opening times: 10am to 1pm and 4:30pm to 7pm.

Prehistory and archaeology of the province. Popular art, coin collections and inscriptions.

Art Museum.

In the former Episcopal Palace. Plaza de Els Apostols. Opening times: 10am to 1pm and 4:30pm to 7pm.

Archaeology from Empuries. Ceramics, glass objects, coins, silverware, codices with miniatures. Paintings and sculptures.

Museum of the History of the City.

Carrer de la Força, 27. Opening times: 10am to 2pm and 5 to 7pm. Sundays and holidays: 10am to 2pm.

Local history and art. Objects from the excavation at El Puig de´en Roca. Instruments and materials related to the sardana.

Museum of the Cathedral Chapter.

In the Cathedral next to the Romanesque cloister. Opening times: 10am to 1pm and 3:30 to 6pm. Open Sundays and holidays.

Exceptional examples of medieval religious art. The Tapestry of the Creation is a Romanesque work of art of the 11C or 12C and is the most valuable object of the treasure. The embroidered drawing represents a medieval cosmogonic view. The Book of the Apocalypse called El Beato de Girona of 975 is also outstanding as is the Arab chest of Hisham II, of the 10C, which is considered to be the oldest Hispanic-Arab work of silver.

Opening times 10am to 2pm and 3pm to 7pm.

Iberian, Greek and Roman archaeology.

Pia Almoina. Plaza de la Font, 11. Opening times: 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 7pm. Saturdays, Sundays and holidays in the morning only.

Prehistoric, Iberian-Roman and medieval archaeology, coin collections and ceramics of the 14C to the 18C.

Calle Vigilant, 1. Open from June 15th to the end of September. From 5pm to 9pm.

Plaza de Gala y Salvador Dali. Opening times: 11:30am to 5:30pm. Sundays and holidays: 9am to 8:30pm.

The admission fee includes a visit to the Museum of El Emporda. Dali´s work in original surroundings and a special atmosphere, including works from the artist's personal collection.

Museum of El Emporda.

Rambla Sara Jorda, 2. Opening times: 11am to 1pm and 3:30pm to 7pm.

Regional art and history. Gallery of Las Sardanas of Monturiol.

Casa de Cultura. Open from 5pm to 8pm.

A sample of the old Surera industry.

Opening times: 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 6:30pm.

Local archaeology, ex-libris, a curious collection of snails and 20C paintings.

Plaza del Carmen. Opening times: 10am to 12pm and 4:30pm to 6:30pm.

Glass, ceramics, paintings and sculpture. Wine Museum.

From Vilajuiga along a road exclusively built to get there. Opening times: 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 8pm.

Ruins of the monastery.

Porta Ferrada. Plaza del Monasterio. Opening times: 11am to 1pm and 5pm to 8pm.

Art from the 13C to the 18C.

Vila Vella. Plaza Roig i Soler. Opening times: 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 8pm.

Roman archaeology. Modern Catalan and foreign paintings and sculptures connected with the resort. A painting by March Chagall.

Archaeological site. Opening times: 10.30am to 1pm and 4pm to 8pm.

Archaeology of an Iberian settlement of the 7C to the 2C BC.

All along the Costa Brava there is a varied selection of supplementary tourist establishments which offer everything from traditional spectacles such as bullfighting to the most sophisticated ones, including discotheques, night clubs, discotheques-cum-pub, cinemas, art galleries and other cultural features. It would be impossible to list them here. Therefore, only the most specific are described below while further information can be obtained from any tourist information centre or the local press.

In Girona, Figueres, Lloret de Mar and San Feliu de Guixols, there are bullfights every Sunday from the end of June until September 15th.

Peralada. Casino Castillo de Peralada. On the road to Peralada before reaching the village. The former castle of Peralada houses de modern installations of this casino, providing a perfect background to the excitement of gambling: American and French roulette, black jack, la Boul, and fruits machines. Restaurant and musical gala performances. Open from Monday to Friday, from 6pm to 3am, and from Friday to Sunday from 5pm to 4am.

The Costa Brava has a long tradition with regard to excellent installations for practising all types of sports. In the following, there is a list of addresses and suggestions which are by no means complete.

These include hang-gliding, gliders, small planes and parachuting which can be practised at the different clubs of the Spanish Federation of Aerial Sports as well as at private clubs, where beginners courses are organised during the summer. At the aerodrome of Empuriabrava, further information is available: Tel: (972) 250595, or at the Aero center offices in Barcelona Tel: (93) 212 7645, and at the Catalan Federation of Aerial Sport (93) 423 9564.

This type of sport has experienced a great comeback, proof of which are the clubs and groups for cycling tourism in Blanes, Girona, Lloret de Mar, Palafrugell, Palamos, San Feliu de Guixols and Vidreres. Information about the itineraries and club addresses can be obtained at the office of the Catalan Bicycle Federation in Girona. Tel: (972) 29 7005.

Club de Golf de Pals. Playa de Pals, 7km from Bagur. Open all year. 18 holes and golf-cart rental as well a practice balls and restaurant.

Catalan Golf Federation (93) 414 5262.

The Riding Club of Girona organises activities and competitions for riding fans. Tel: (972) 20 20 74